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About the road on the southbank; it’s very good from the senegambia area past Brikama to Sotokoi, which is apr. 40 km from senegambia. Past that there are a few stretches reasonably well the rest is awesome. An average of 30 km/h is probably what you will reach (this includes the better stretches). The sandroad to Tumani Tenda lodge by the way starts past Sotokoi and not before as indicated on your map (coming from Brikama), it branches of to the north in a curve.
65 Km from the senegambia area you’ll find a sideroad at the village of Killy leading to the village of Bintang where you can find the Bintang Bolong Lodge. The dispute between the former owner, as result of which no maintenance was undertaken for at least 5 years, making it “a sory site”, is solved by the judge. There a new, German owners now and already the restaurant is fully renewed. Three simple rooms with outside shower where decent some 50 meters from the mangroves. The renovation of three other rooms in more beautyfull places in the mangroves was about to begin. Most of the time they have running water now and in the evenings also electricity. The lodge can be reached directly through mobile number 9929362. You could get the Senegalese manager (French-speaking). You will reach it in 2 hours from senegambia and it is a really beautifull and restgiving location. You could spend the night, but having lunch and spending a few hours is also worth while. The lodge can also offer you different activities.
In Kiang there used to be Kemoto Hotel. It was running again two years ago but it was bought by a Lebanese who wants his son to run it when he is older, so it is slowly falling down, which is a crying shame. In the mean time a new lodge is build behind the school and it should be ready this year (they said even in two months) it has French owners as I understood. I don’t know a name.
The Northbank is reached after the crossing of the river Gambia with Ferry. It may take you e few hours when it’s very busy, although you can try to get someone who can make arrangements for you to be in front of the row, it will cost you a few hundred dalasis. Coming from the north going to Banjul get your ticket just past the intersection to Kerewan on the left side of the road.
Going to Ginak Island you are probably better off letting the owner pick you up with pirogue in Banjul. The Ferrycrossing delays you and you have to leave the car behind either at the creek separating you from Ginak Island and walk another 40 minutes through “tomatofields” (don’t let them fool you) and get somebody you hopefully can trust to gard the car (esp. the battery is interesting). You could also leave the car behind beside the policestation at Barra (coming from the Ferry on the left side) and go further by Bushtaxi, 100m further on the right side(20 dalasis or 300 when you take it for yourself), but if the battery is gone then who are you going to tell the policeman may have taken it ? The huts in the Madyana Lodge are simple, made of wood and elefantgrass, they have shared toilet and “bathroom” with no running water. The rooms with veranda are not ready and since most people prefer the simpler huts will probably remain in this state. I paid 600 D for the night and breakfast, 300 D for lunch and 400 D for Diner but I forgot to bargain.
The road up to Kerewan begins just outside Barra (turn right) and is remarkably well. Kerewan is situated along another wide sidearm (bolong) of the Gambia River, 50 km’s from Barra. 2,5 years ago French owners started to build a lodge there which is called Hotel Badala Kerewan. It now has apr. 10 stone huts with bathrooms in them. The showers have running cold water. The rooms are comfortable, though not very big. In the evenings electricity is available. A swimmingpool was as good as ready when I visited December 2004. It must be delicious after a warm day of travelling, the frogs had this opinion too, I hope when it is ready this will improve. Price for a single room 300 D, breakfast 100 D, diner 150 D. Management is Senegalese, so French spoken. Tel. : 9924984 the lodge is somewhat south of Kerewan, you probably need to ask directions in town.
I heared there is a new fine lodge in Juffureh as well.
From Kerewan tot Farafenni is a wide sandroad. If people tell you it’s good, as even the carrentaloffice did, don’t let them fool you, it’s not. If you reach an average of 35 km/h you’re doing well. If you go on the Ferry from Farafenni to Soma look out for the ticketoffice it’s probably 1 or more km’s before the ferry itself. On the southbank going to Farafenni you have to buy a ticket in a walled place with a blue gate on a little hill, I overlooked the sign, it may well not be there.
