It is probably not well known that there is a longstanding, supportive connection between the chimps of Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Association (CRA) in The Gambia and the Dutch people. The connection could be said to have started in 1977 when the late Hugo van Lawick, a well known Dutch wildlife film producer then married to Jane Goodall, made a 60 minute documentary of Stella Brewer’s (1951-2008) pioneering attempt at rehabilitating captive chimpanzees into the wilds of Senegal.
But the real start of the strong connection was in 1978 when ten baby chimps were confiscated by Dutch authorities at Schiphol airport. They were being smuggled from Sierra Leone to a medical research centre in Mexico by a well known European animal dealer based in Freetown. Sadly two of the chimps were dead on arrival but the surviving eight were sent to Wassenaar Zoo where they were cared for by Hanneke Louman. Dick van den Hoorn (then a journalist with De Telegraaf) started, together with World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Holland then under the directorship of Niels Halbertsma, to raise funds to send the chimps to Stella at Abuko Nature Reserve in The Gambia to learn how to live in the wild.
Twenty-five years on, and now 270km upriver in the River Gambia National Park but still under Stella’s watchful eye, two of the ‘Schiphol chimps’ are still alive with a total of seven offspring between them. A third ‘Schiphol chimp’, Katie, died a tragic death. She was found, inexplicably, dead in a tangle of lianas – but, thanks to the efforts of numerous people in Holland, she did have several years of freedom on the islands and she left behind Cracker who now has her own daughter – Cocochannel. And so the Schiphol connection is maintained.
In 1981 the WWF rangers (the juniors’ WWF) started fund raising for the ‘Schiphol chimps’ under Annebet Bannier. Then, in 1982, the chimpanzee adoption scheme started in Holland [having started in Sweden two years earlier]. With WWF Holland looking after the accounts and producing the newsletter, the task of translating and administrating the scheme was undertaken by Hendrik-Jan and Ineke van den Berg. Following a policy change at WWF the scheme moved under the umbrella of the Golden Ark Foundation and that too is about to end following their recent policy review. After almost a quarter of a century, and despite their own very demanding lives, the van den Bergs still translate and administer the adoption scheme, with Annebet Bannier and Niels Halbertsma also still involved.
Over the years the support of the Dutch people for this adoption scheme has contributed substantially to the work of rehabilitating and then protecting the chimps in The Gambia.
In 1999 the late Prince Bernhard awarded Stella the Order of the Golden Ark [Tot Ridder] for “...her work with the chimpanzees and for her fund raising work through a remarkable chimpanzee adoption program all with the support of inspired volunteers..”. As Prince Bernhard pinned the medal on Stella’s jacket he remarked that he remembered giving the same award to Stella’s father (founder of Abuko Nature Reserve) a few years earlier.
Then in 2001 Nature Conservation Films - a Dutch wildlife film company - made a 60 minute documentary of Stella’s work. The film was eventually sold to the National Geographic TV channel giving the project once again world wide coverage.
Until very recently it was not possible to visit the CRA’s chimps. Now with generous support of both WWF Holland and the Golden Ark Foundation – amongst others - a visitor facility known as Badi Mayo has recently been opened. A visit to Badi Mayo is a worthwhile experience in itself: the 79 chimps, hippos, crocodiles, manatee, etc, the birdlife that The Gambia is already famous for and, not least, the true tranquillity of the area. But, with all revenue from Badi Mayo going towards the continued support and protection of the chimps, your visit would also help to continue the long tradition of Dutch support for this, the oldest and most successful of the chimpanzee rehabilitation projects in Africa.
And the latest, but we hope not the last, strengthening of the connection: GambiaTravel has just adopted Diao for five years. A good choice for he is a lively fellow who enjoys himself, and gets on well with other chimps but he has an inner strength which could lead to him becoming alpha male [group leader] in due course.
The brochure
Background
A rare opportunity to stay at the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Association’s (CRA) * working camp: Africa’s longest running and perhaps most successful, chimpanzee rehabilitation centre and to see first hand Stella Brewer’s pioneering, holistic approach* to wildlife conservation. Here the local people really do benefit directly from the conservation of their country’s wildlife. There are currently 77 chimps, well protected in their national park home which comprises three islands in the River Gambia some 270 km inland. Under Stella’s guidance the existence of the chimps has already brought real, tangible benefits to the villagers near the national park:
· significant direct and indirect employment;
· more than 300 children currently sponsored at the local primary school;
· the rebuilding of the school (by Future in Our Hands, a Swedish NGO);
· a small village clinic; and
· a Horse & Donkey project that helps farmers look after their equines better thus improving both the farmers’ agricultural productivity and the welfare of the animals.
Other projects are at various stages of development.
Visitor Facility To help finance the long term welfare of the chimps the CRA operates a very low number (you will rarely be with more than 6-7 other visitors) visitor facility with all revenue going to supplement that generated by the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Trust’s* (CRT) long running chimp adoption scheme.
Accomodation The visitor facility allows you to experience, in a degree of comfort, just how the chimp project operates. There are only four, 2-bedded en suite Safari tents each set on a platform located just below the lip of the mainland cliffs that overlook the River Gambia and the islands of the national park. The Safari tents are set some 50-80 metres apart with the neighbouring tents just visible giving a sense of privacy without a feeling of isolation. Taking a shower beneath the full moon with the River Gambia shimmering below is described by some visitors as an ‘ethereal experience’.
The Red Colobus and Green Vervet monkeys pass by the platforms daily, the former giving magnificent displays of their agility as they leap from tree to tree. A troop of Western baboons moves along the edge of the cliff and you may be the object of their alarm ‘barks’ from time to time. Your dreams might be disrupted by the ‘whoops’ of prowling hyena or by the cries of chimps also disturbed in their sleep. The elevated platforms allow observation of the tree tops below –an unusual position from which to view some of The Gambia’s abundant bird life.
A winding stairway takes you from the cliff top down to the narrow strip of riverain forest and the river’s edge where a short wooden walkway leads to the waterhouse. Set on stilts over the River Gambia the waterhouse provides a cooler, screened relaxation area where drinks and meals are served. Food is basic - a mixture of local and European. Beer and soft drinks are available for purchase but spirits and wine should be brought along as required.
The partly shaded veranda faces the river and Island 2 (home to alpha-male chimp Hesus and his group) from where the boat will collect you for river trips. A small, elevated, open terrace is ideal for moon and star gazing. From the waterhouse you can frequently hear the chimps and sometimes see them. Hippos are sighted from the waterhouse as are, occasionally, the endangered West African manatee. (On 6th February 2006 manatee were sighted nine times over a period of one and a half hours.). Again you will be well positioned to view the bird life – from Vs of Spurwing geese to flights of White Cattle Egret with their plumage tinged a rosy pink with the rays of the setting sun.
Some further information to help you plan your trip You need to be reasonably physically active to maximise your enjoyment of the experience (and to manage the winding stairway). It is hot during the days (with coolish nights) of late November through to early March and hot and humid – day and night –for most of the remainder of the year.
Children are not encouraged and for safety reasons those below the age of 12 cannot be accepted.
The nearest basic medical facilities are at Bansang some two hours further up river over rough roads.
You should be covered by a reputable travel insurance policy which advisedly includes for medivac.
We continually seek to improve your experience – although we do take note of a visitor’s comment: “...please don’t change too much –it’s perfect...” Please note that, to achieve these improvements, the actual details at the time of your visit may be different to those given here or in the various guidebooks. If you have a particular requirement or interest please contact us before confirming your booking to ensure that this can be catered for.
The trip
Itinerary
A two night stay might have the following itinerary (each visit tends to be slightly different depending on your time, method of arrival: water or road and your personal interests:
Day 1 - Arrival early afternoon - check in and refresh. Late afternoon take a river safari around the islands on which Stella normally accompanies you. The chimps are observed from boats (screened, stilted viewing hides are planned) and you are almost certain to see some of the park’s 40-50 hippos and the odd crocodile...and of course abundant bird life. Return at dusk for drinks and a refreshing - and perhaps moonlit – shower. Then supper and afterwards discussion with Stella on aspects of her work that interest you. Or just check in & chill until supper time- in the most relaxing of surroundings.
Day 2 - Morning more or less individually tailored: bird watching on water or land, trip to Sambel Kunda, horse ‘chariot’ ride through the forest park, visit the school, visit the clinic, visit the Horse and Donkey Association HQ. Late afternoon: take a river safari, to include more chimp viewing. Evening – after supper watch one of the documentaries made about Stella’s work.
Day 3 - Tailor your own morning schedule prior to departure before mid-day.
Price The price is euro 350 per person for 2 nights full board inclusive of all river safari/chimp viewing boat trips and national park entry fees.
Including:
() private return transfer from the coast with airconditioned car and driver
() ferry crossings
() fuel
() 2 overnights including breakfast, lunch and dinner
Not including:
() drinks.
Notes:
The Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Association (CRA) is the Gambian registered operational arm of the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Trust (CRT) a charity registered in the UK (Reg No 10811510)
Stella was appointed O.B.E. (Officer in the Order of the British Empire) in January 2006 for her work with the chimps, conservation and community development.
On 1 July 2006 the Senate of the University of Glasgow, UK, will confer the Honorary Degree of Doctor of Veterinary Medicine & Surgery upon her for her work with animals - chimps and horses and donkeys in particular
Others experiences
Recent extracts from the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Association visitor book
“What an amazing & spectacular place. I am lost for words. This is an experience of a lifetime for any and all tourists who visit you.”
“An experience never to be forgotten.”
“Thank you both for such a wonderful experience we had in camp. Great to finally meet the chimps. This was worth the long journey from Malaysia.”
“We just love it, both the camp and people. We will always be back.”
“What a fabulous place & valuable work. Keep it up.”
“A wonderful first visit.”
“Great to see tasteful and comfortable accommodation in fantastic surroundings.”
“What a wonderful place, Stella’s chimps are introduced like an extended family. The tents are fab and what a breath taking view when you finally get up the 100 or so steps.”
“It looks like you have found a piece of paradise here. It is my first visit to Africa and I will certainly never forget it.”
“Gambia at its best....See you again soon.”
“Stunning! I can’t quite believe what I have seen in the past 2 days, I am really overwhelmed.”
“A memorable and epic drive to Kuntaur...A welcome cool drink during the boat transfer followed by a shower with a view – one of the most amazing shower views in the world. To see the chimps and wild life was wonderful and to see Diao (I sponsor him) was terrific. .....wanted hippos and she got them and crocs but the village was the highlight for her. We will be back for a longer stay – please don’t change too much –it’s perfect.”
“This has been a wonderful escape from the ‘touristy’ trappings of the rest of our holiday in Gambia. We’ll encourage others to make the journey inland.”
“Next time we’ll do Gambia independently & contact you regarding spending 4-5 nights then perhaps going on further up country.”
Information & bookings in The Netherlands GambiaTravel.com
e-mail: info@gambiatravel.com Schiphol information (actual departures and arrivals): +31 900 72447465 and/or www.schiphol.nl
Background
