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Preface 'No problem in The Gambia' and 'The friendliest people in the world", two expressions that certainly go for the country and the inhabitants. Coming from a western world it's a bit difficult to find an attitude to accept that everything that happens to you and comes over you, is not a problem to you either. About that friendliness: we are not used to introduce ourselves ten or twenty times a day. Nevertheless, that's the way to meet the average Gambian. This mini-travel-guide tries to give your visit to The Gambia more body.
Obviously the information is not complete, room is too limited for that. It only wants to contribute to a successful stay in The Gambia. If you apply a few basic rules and try to deal with your inbred restraint in a relaxed way, your visit will give you no problems.
People of western European countries often speak about 'Gambia', the name of the country is, just like the name of the river that divides the country into two parts: The Gambia. Sometimes that is confusing. Speaking about the river, it is clearly indicated: the river Gambia.
The Gambia is at the beginning of its development. Situations change and even the history of the country is regularly explained in a different way. People often come to new insights. That is the onsequence of the fact that the original history was passed on by means of speech. On the basis of closer scientific investigations, they regularly come to the conclusion that it must have been different. Those differences in insight are also the cause of books and writings differing from each other. The stories you hear about the same subject are often different. Take it for granted that the reporters are convinced they are right. Time has polished up history, tribal chauvinism often swapped roles. That means differences on essential issues. Don't make the mistake of pointing that out to the reporter. He is convinced he is right.
I wish you a pleasant holiday and lots of fun during your stay in The Gambia!
Paul de Waard, author.
Some facts about country and people In fact The Gambia is a long strip of land, cut in two by the river of the same name. This river rises in the Futa Jallon mountains in Guinea and runs through Senegal and The Gambia to the Atlantic Ocean. The country is hardly wider than 35 kilometres, with the exception of the Atlantic coast area, where it is almost 70 kilometres wide, from border to border. From the far west till the east border with Senegal it is about 450 kilometres, by road. On three sides The Gambia is surrounded by Senegal, a country that is about 17 times as large.
The landscape is slightly sloping. There are a few hills, but they are hardly recognisable as such. With the one exception it is mostly what we call, 'hidden gradient'. The summit is west of Farafenye on the north bank of the river Gambia: 92 metres above sea level. On the south bank the summit is 88 metres and you can find it north of Basse Santa Su.
Climate Temperatures are fairly constant. This means, measured at the same spot. Big differences can occur between the coast and the inland area. Even the difference between temperatures on the north - and south bank can be considerable. Besides, the season plays its part too.If there is little wind or when the wind comes from the east, the warmth often feels oppressive. After a few days you get used to it. If the wind comes from the ocean there is an ideal climate on the coast. Particularly during the dry season the wind comes from the north-east. It brings in warm air from the Sahara, which, thanks to the cooler ocean water, falls to more pleasant temperatures. In the inland temperatures are very high during the dry season. The relative air humidity isn't so bad, with exception of the rain season. Getting used to it isn't so difficult, it's just a matter of another pace of living.
The Gambia has a subtropical climate with clear differences between the dry and the wet season. During the rainy season (sometimes heavy) showers fall, mainly in the afternoon and evening. The sun practically shines continuously from December till May. In May and November some light cloud with the sun shining through and then a drop of rain could fall. For a stay on the coast you don't have to consider the rain season very much. During the rainy season a visit to the inland remains possible, with some reservation. The rainfall makes the climate feel refreshing.
Flora The Gambia is subtropical. That means that literally everything grows and blooms. There is a large variety of vegetation. The trees will catch your eye most. There are several sorts of palms, the kola-palm of which is best present in numbers, but kokos-palms are present all around. The palms can easily be recognised, but you won't fail to notice the freakishly formed trunk of the mahogany tree, and the (less common) dead straight trunk and large leaves of the teak tree. How about the enormous kapok tree? Furthermore, you will find the mango tree in the entire country. Still these trees are not that tied up with The Gambia as the tree that has to appeal to the imagination of anyone who goes deeply into the history and the culture of the country: the baobab- or monkey bread tree.
The baobab tree The boabab tree is the most outstanding and most discussed tree in The Gambia. Mystic qualities are assigned to it. It is said that the baobab tree is the oldest organic creature in The Gambia, or even on earth. The average height of this tree is about 16 to 17 metres.The trunk makes it outstanding. Measuring 9 metres around at the widest spot the baobab can easily be recognised, all the more because the trunk has got a freakish structure, as if a number of trunks have grown together. The tree and its products are used for many purposes. It can easily reach the age of a thousand years and it is hardly ever cut down, unless it is dead. Many villages and compounds are built around a boabab.
Because of the thousand uses the tree is invaluable for the inland population. The bark, for instance, is cooked to make a remedy against malaria. Strips of the same bark are used to tie something up and the clever Gambian makes clothes out of these strips. Furthermore, the bark was used as wrapping material for something that had to be kept for a longer period. The fruits of the boabab are gritty, but the flesh of the fruit as well as the seed is edible. Mixed with water and sugar the juice of the fruit is used as a remedy to stimulate the blood circulation and bowels. So don't take too much of it! But, before you are up to the juice of the fruit, something has to happen beforehand.
As said before, the fruit is gritty and you need a heavy object to open it. To do that is such a way that all the elements, which it was all about in the first place, come out undamaged, is where the skill comes in. For the monkeys, who are mad about the fruits too, that is no problem. They beat the fruit on a stone, just as long until there is a little hole from which the juice emerges. When they have drunk the juice, the rest of the fruit is broken up in the same way. The fruits do carry the inland name of: 'monkey bread'. With this the name 'monkey bread tree' is explained as well. The edible leaves are used to make a rheumatism remedy, the flowers serve as decoration. In short, a useful tree. If a boabab dies or has to be cut down for a very urgent reason, the trunk and some of the thick branches are used to make canoes or fishing boats of. What is left after that serves as wood for fires.
Other plants An important part of the forests along the river Gambia far inland, is made up of mangrove forests. In The Gambia people often speak of mangrove swamps. In fact, that is the name which comes closest to reality. When you see the trees you will think you are dealing with bushes. Coming closer will teach you that the trees are rooted in the water, and that the roots stick out of the water for a substantial part. In many places mud appears at low tide. In short, the scenery has all the external features of a swamp with bushes. The mangrove doesn't get higher than just a few metres. It is a residence for dozens of birds and monkeys.
During the last few decades the volume of forest in The Gambia has decreased with nearly 35%. An important cause for that is the burning of it for the manufacturing of charcoal, which still is an important device for the preparation of meals. Although not allowed, this form of deforestation occurs in many places. A lot of forest area has simply been cut down to make room for farmland and compounds. The reclamation for the purpose of extension of land is subordinate to legislation as well, but what is the meaning of legislation in The Gambia? Daily life has its own priorities. With the less important plants elephant grass especially catches the eye. You immediately understand what it takes its name from. It is an immense high sort of grass that turns up as weeds in nearly every place where they can certainly do without it. In the country it is a plague for every farmer. Of course you can find almost every wellknown sort of bamboo in The Gambia.Their sprouts are a delicacy for all sorts of animals. The bamboo itself is used as basic material for the construction of houses as well as for the production of charcoal, although that is forbidden too.
Flowers are abundant in The Gambia. It is remarkable how often vividly-coloured flowers along the public highway, under a thick layer of red dust from that highway, find the opportunity to convince passers-by of their beauty. Plants that are cherished at the tourist's home as the youngest child, grow in hotel gardens. The Hibiscus, with flowers twice or three times as big as on your window sill, is used as a fence, as a sort of hedgerow.
The magnificence of the Gambian flora reaces too far to call it profuse, but in this country, the lover extensively comes into his own. Also on the north bank of the river, with regions that seem dry and withered (The Gambia is one of the so called 'Sahel-countries), you discover the exuberance of nature in many places.
Fauna The Gambia is not a country where they organise safaris like in Kenya or South-Africa. Bird safaris however, are of the order of the day. The country is a paradise for birdlovers and everywhere you meet the most exotic sorts of birds. Regularly new species are discovered. Up to now they have counted more than 450 different kinds of birds. Some of them can only be found in The Gambia. In the Abuko Nature Reserve only, about 280 different kinds of birds have found a place to live. In hotel parks, if present, you might have the feeling you are in a tropical aviary. Also along the beach, in the mangrove swamps, and along the desert border, you see birds of exotic beauty. The early morning is the best part of the day to watch birds, but in the evening between daylight and darkness, they like to show themselves as well. To study birds you really need binoculars, and you can't do without a telephoto lens when taking pictures.
There is hardly any big game in The Gambia and then exclusively in the national parks. Even there you will only find just a few of them. These are, with the exception of the animals near Sindola Safar Lodge, often housed in poorer conditions than the wild animals in our zoos. The last giraffe disappeared from The Gambia at the end of the 19th century and the last elephant at the beginning of this century. At any time several sorts of buffaloes and antilopes were present, but they have, for the greater part, been driven away or exterminated by man.
It were, for that matter, not only, but also, the white people who have to answer for this. Rumour has it that not very long ago, a leopard was shot by an inland poacher. Recently leopard tracks were discovered in Kiang West National Park. So, there is some big game in The Gambia, but don't count on them showing themselves in their natural surroundings. Up the river Gambia hippos and crocodiles live and with the help of a good guide you may certainly see them. On the seaside part of the river you can easily get into contact with dolphins.
On the other hand you won't have any trouble at all finding monkeys. Four smaller sorts live in The Gambia and you can find them literally everywhere. Some of them seem to have been sighted on Denton Bridge near Banjul, the most important main road in the country.
Furthermore some small sorts of antelopes, aardvarks en warthogs live in The Gambia.
There are a lot of snakes in The Gambia and there are some mean species among them. It's very difficult to see them. At the first sign of storm and foreboding they quickly disappear. It's a rare thing for you to really see them. However, snakes live in the parks around hotels as well, although you will see the giant-lizards probably more often.
Snakes are also found in the water, some of them with lethal bites. There are more than enough fish that can hurt you rather badly or even paralyse you with their prickles or fins. That is an important reason not to go out angling without supervision by an expert. The most exotic fish live in the river Gambia and in the creeks through the mangrove swamps, although you can't compare these fish with the colourful sorts that live near coral reefs in tropical waters. Sometimes you are dealing with rare species like the guitar- fish, which has a striking resemblance to a friendly balalaika, or the lungfish. The mudfish, no stranger in the swamps, uses its fins to move forward and even manages to climb trees. Larger animals such as dolphins can be found in these waters as well, of course. As a result of the lack of barriers the river is salt and brine from the coast till 150 to 180 kilometres inland, in the dry season even up to 240 km.
National parks The Gambia has several national parks and nature reserves. Best known and open to the public is Abuko Nature Reserve, see elsewhere.
Baboon Island National Park, west of JanjangBureh (Georgetown), is closed to the public. The name makes it likely to expect a lot of baboons, and so it does, but they live in large numbers in other parts of The Gambia as well. It's more important to know that the last remaining chimpansees in TheGambia, live in this park.
Kiang West National Park is open to the public, but you'd better not visit the park without a good guide. In this park you can find several sorts of tropical forest, mangrove-swamps and other landscapes, such as savannas.
There are some other places that can not be counted to the national parks, but they are certainly worthwhile visiting, while they can easily be reached.
In the surrounding area of the Fajara Hotel and the Badala Park Hotel are pieces of land that are flooded during high tide. At outgoing tide these parts stand clear of water and dozens of all sorts of small sea-animals stay behind. It's paradise for birds.
Bijilo park, near Kololi, at walking distance from Senegambia Beach Hotel, Tafbel Hotel and the Kairaba Beach Hotel, houses a treasure of birds. Moreover, the monkeys are well represented here too. In the early morning it's a paradise for birdlovers, who can make a walk through the park via laid out paths. The terrain is hilly in some places.
Cities The cities in The Gambia have usually come into being by the joining together of villages and compounds, the settlement of trading-posts or because of the strategic position. They have neither the size nor the number of inhabitants the Westerner imagines when he thinks of a city.
According to a counting in 1993 (Statement of the Ministery of Tourism and Culture), these are the most important cities in the west, together with their numbers of inhabitants.
Serekunda 275.758;
Banjul (capital) 42.326;
Brikama 41.761;
Bakau 28.882;
Sukuta 16.667;
Lamin 10.668;
Gunjur 9.983;
Soma 7.988.
You will notice that many places seem to have more than one name. Serekunda, for example, is also called Serrekunda, Serakunda or Serre kunda and Sukuta is sometimes called Sabiji. There is a simple cause. Several languages and many dialects are spoken in The Gambia. Names mostly come into being by mixture of dialects and then again they are under the influence of appointed names by the British authorities in the past.
The history of The Gambia in a nutshell around 500 B.C. Hanno of Carthage reports the position of The Gambia for the first time.
around 700 A.D. raising of the(for the time being) oldest signs of civilisation: the stone circles of Wassu.
around 800 - 1000 settlement of Wolof in the Senegambia area.
around 1100 settlement of Jola in the Senegambia area.
around 1250 - 1350 settlement of Mandinka in the Senegambia area.
1456 arrival of the Portuguese in The Gambia under Henry the Navigator.
1501 the first Gambian leaves the country as a slave.
1562 first important slave transport (to England) under captain John Hawkins.
1651 foundation of Fort James.
1659 - 1779 British-French skirmishes around Albadarr, Juffureh and James Island.
1763 Senegambia becomes British (treaty of Paris) 1764 colonel O'Hara takes up his residence as representative of the British governor on James Island.
1783 separation of Senegal and The Gambia, The Gambia remains British (treaty of Versailles) 1807 passing of law abolition of slavery by British parliament.
1816 Alexander Grant founds Bathurst (Banjul).
around 1850 - 1900 Soninke-Marabout wars. 1884 the official borders of The Gambia are determined (Berlin conference).
4 October 1963 governor Sir Edward Windley starts preparations independence.
18 February 1965 The Gambia becomes independent within British Common wealth 1966 first Gambian by birth British governor: Alhaji Farimang Mamadi Singhabe.
1967 The Gambia and Senegal sign declaration of intent to come to one state.
24 April 1970 The Gambia independent state, Dawda Kairaba Jawara becomes president.
4 October 1988 Coming into operation of Senegambia Highway.
30 September 1989 The Gambia and Senegal dissolve their treaty of cooperation.
22 July 1994 Jawara deposed and banished by military forces, lieutenant A.J.J.Jameh becomes head of state.
Jun - Dec 1996 registration of enfranchised citizens, referendum for new constitution, general elections for districts and parliament. Yahya A.J.J.Jammeh is elected president of The Gambia.
2001 Yahya A.J.J.Jammeh re-elected as president of The Gambia.
Tribes About ten tribes live in The Gambia. Most of them live not only in The Gambia, but in Senegal as well. The most important ones are:
Mandinka (Mandingo), Fula (Fullah, Fulani), Wolof (Wollof, Jolof), Jola (Jolla), Serahuli, Serer (Serere) and Tukulor
Language The official language in The Gambia is English. It is spoken in Parliament, at the administration of justice and at all official events. The language is taught at school and it rarely happens not to have somebody around who has a little command of the language. In the inland that might happen to you, but that should be an exception. In tourist areas everybody speaks English of course. However, keep in mind that education has never been compulsory in The Gambia, so there are a lot of people, particularly among the elderly, who can not read and write. French will serve you in most hotels as well.
The Gambia doesn't differ from other countries at all: people get madly enthousiastic if a foreigner speaks a few words in their language. Considering the amount of languages in The Gambia a rather impossible task. But do remember:'Na nga def?', 'how are you?'. Then you say:'ma ngi fi rekk', 'I'm fine'. Inland you will be greeted with:'asalaa malekum', 'let peace be with you'. The answer: 'malekum salaam', 'and with you and your family'.
There are small booklets available at GambiaTravel.com translations of simple words and sintences from English into Wolof and Mandinka. A set costs 10 Euro, including the mailing to Great Britain.
Family relations Polygamy occurs frequently. According to the Islam a man can have four women. Sometimes a man has more than four women, but that is not according to the regulations and is considered indecent. Sometimes the system of family relations is therefore complicated. When someone speaks of his brother, it might just as well be his half-brother, or his cousin. If you want to know precisely, ask after the relation to his brother. You will often hear that his brother has the same father, but not the same mother. In many cases it will be the same father and the same mother, because there are not that many Gambians who can afford to have several women.
There is often a second (younger) woman if the marriage doesn't bring children. You can easily inquire after the family relation. A Gambian will not be surprised. He will often voluntarily explain that it is his brother of another (or the same) mother. Don't be surprised to hear that they have different fathers and mothers. They grew up in the same compound, probably under the same roof where, at any time, their fathers decided to live together as brothers, and their mothers as sisters.
The compound Most villages in the country are composed of several compounds. A compound is the smallest community. It consists of several families, with the senior man in charge.He actually exercises authority and is responsable for everything happening within his compound. Without his consent there will be no marriage, no christening ceremony and no child attends classes at school. His opinion is decisive in every important business within the walls of his compound. He often operates as mediator if there are differences of opinion. That means that a lot of responsability rests upon his shoulders. Nevertheless, you will seldom hear of differences of opinion. When a man has to decide on the education of his children, coming from different mothers, showing favour to one of them above others and jealousy are on the look-out. You will notice very little of that. The senior man is in charge and the women can live with his decisions. The authority within the family is always exercised by the man, also within the other families in the compound. Therefore, the decisions in such a family have already been made before approval of the compound-senior has been asked. Just like the women accept the decisions of their husband, does the younger man accept the decision of the senior man. He is sometimes called 'chief', although that is not an official title.
In a compound generally families of the same descent live. The senior man or his oldest son is often the father of the families within the compound.
A village is run by the senior men together. The one whose family has lived in the village for the longest period of time is in charge. He is called the 'Alkalo'. Together with other alkalo's in the region he also has another instrument of authority. It consists of the senior men of villages that belong together or are thrown together. They decide on matters of common interest. It's better to say: they advise the head of district or his representative on matters of common interest, for example on the spot where to sink a new well or on the construction of a mosque.
The houses in a village are mostly put up from a mud floor. Braided bamboo mats are put on end, tied together and smeared with clay. The roofs are mostly made from reed or leaves. In villages at the right location, bricks are made, piled up and smeared with clay or mud. If they have enough money they use cement. Villages are built round a common yard, called 'bantaba' (large square). There is mostly a large tree which gives a lot of shade, preferably a baobab, in the middle of the bantaba. Social life takes place here. Meetings are held, people come together to have a chat and the latest news is exchanged. The bantaba is also used to give performances. The village is fenced off with reed and bamboo mats, or they use stakes between which they stretch grass. In the coastal strip and the neighbouring area they often use corrugated iron.
The tasks within the village are strictly separated. The men do the heavy work, like building houses and roads. They take care of the maintenance of houses and of the fence around the village. They sink wells and dig latrines. Besides they are responsible for the work in the fields, with the exception of the work in the rice fields and the care for the vegetable gardens; these jobs are for grown up women. Apart from some agricultural jobs, the women also take care of the upbringing of the children and of the preparations for meals. Furthermore they are responsible for the maintenance indoors and they take care of the small live stock and poultry that scratch around the house. Fetching water from the common well is also an important and often time-consuming activity. Their daughters and cousins help them performing all those tasks, because very often several women live in one and the same house. Together they take care of the sick and those in need. The principal wife is the one who has been married to the man for the longest time, she is in charge of all the tasks that have to be done by the women.
The older men, in The Gambia that means that you are older than forty, don't actually participate in the production process any longer, unless there is an urgent need. They allocate the tasks and supervise, teach the young ones what they have been doing for so many yearsthemselves. It's their responsibility to see to it that the work is done in the right order and with the right priorities.
Finally, the boys up to about eighteen years of age, set off with the cattle. They see to it that the cows, sheep and goats can graze and have plenty to drink. If that isn't a full day's work they help keeping the house.
All adults exercise authority over all the children, but for the rest men and women have carefully clear-cut tasks. They mosty eat in separate groups, women and children first, then men.
Religion The Gambia is an Islamic country. It is assumed that about 80% belong to the Islam, but according to the official statement this is 95%. The remaining 5% belong to another church, particularly the Anglican and Roman-Catholic church. Both churches have their own bishop in The Gambia.Furthermore there are (often concentrated) groups of Methodists, Seventh-day Adventists and even followers of the baha'i-doctrine, best to be compared to humanism.
So, you will often meet the Islam. Although they believe in the islam way sometimes differs from the way they do in the middle-east or the African north-coast, a great part of the population is strictly religious. Fundamentalism or zealotry do not occur. You often see praying Gambians. They kneel on a special mat, facing Mekka, the birthplace of Mohammed and the most important place of pilgrimage for Islamites. They pray five times a day: at 06.20 the Fajr, at 14.00 the Suhr, at 17.00 the Asr, at 19.30 the Maghrib and at 20.30 the Isha. Taking pictures and making a film go against the religious persuasion of islamic Gambians. When you want to do so, do ask permission (if possible) beforehand.
Names are often preceded by the word: 'Alhaji'. This means that the person who hides behind the name has made a pilgrimage (hadj) to Mekka. Merchants very often use this title, because it gives prestige and it brings customers.
Because of The Gambia's colonial past, Sunday is the sabbath. The holy day for the Gambians however, remains the Friday. The birthday of the prophet Mohammed in September, is a national holiday. The date differs every year, because the Gambians have two calendars: the western and the islamic. Because of the fact that the islamic year counts ten days less than the 365 days the Westerner counts in one year (or eleven less in a leap year), the dates of islamic holidays differ every year.
Islamites celebrate Ramadan. It takes place during the ninth month of the islamic year, starting at new moon and ending at the next new moon with a terrific celebration. It's a period of fasting and praying. Between sunrise and sunset they don't eat, drink or smoke and sex is taboo. Immediately after sunset they put an end to all that.
The tourist will hardly notice anything of Ramadan: every now and then it might occur that the service during evening meals leaves a bit to be desired. The guests come first but the servants haven't had anything to eat for a whole day yet.
Two months and ten days after the end of Ramadan, they celebrate Tobaski, the celebration of the offering. A sheep, goat or chicken is ritually slaughtered. This is done by cutting the animal's throat. The slaughtering is done by a religious person or the head of the house or compound. However, he can only do the slaughtering if he has attended the ritual slaughtering by the imam in the morning. During the slaughtering the wife of the person who does the slaughtering puts her hand on his back. It regularly occurs that tourists are invited to take part in the Tobaski celebrations with a family. They will however, expect a contribution towards the cost. This is done in kind, for example in the form of a bag of rice. The days before Tobaski it is a rumpus of the first order on the the many cattle markets. Prices of small live stock are skyrocketing. To get round this somewhat a lot of inhabitants of the coastal strip travel inland, where prices are lower. During these days you see an extra lot of sheep and goats in and on public transport. New clothing is often bought and the colourful clothing of the women especially catches the eye. They show themselves with it the day after Tobaski. Public life practically lies idle during Tobaski.
Gambian cooking Traditional Gambian cooking consists of dishes that, someway or the other, have something to do with the most important products of the country: peanuts, rice, couscous, chicken and fish. They are prepared over an open fire or boiled. Apart from restaurants, many other eating places use oil not always suitable to western stomachs. Dry rice and dry bread are excellent side-dishes.
A few dishes Wolof-rice: rice (or couscous) prepared in the way the Wolof-tribe has been doing for centuries, with fresh vegetables, several kinds of meat and tomatoes; this meal is common known as Benachin.
Several sorts of sisay: sisay is the Mandika-word for chicken, so you know what the main ingredient is.
sisay-bassi: chicken with barley, several flavourings and spices; sisay-nayebi: chicken with peas and beans, again with several, sometimes spicey, side-dishes; sisay-yassa: chicken with onions and garlic, pepper and vinegarsauce.
I wouldn't recommend chicken, particularly in the inland, that is prepared over an open fire. You will not have to expect any problems in restaurants. Always cut the chicken in two to see if it is well roasted.
A dish with the most important agricultural article, the peanut, also belongs to the permanent inland menus; try domada: a peanut-puree with rice (or couscous) and several sorts of meat; for starters you could choose tio-gio, a peanut-soup.
Fish is one of the most important products in The Gambia and at the same time main course in many meals. It is prepared in dozens of ways, but do try fish without sauces or spices. The Ladyfish, for example, is a very tasty fish with lovely white meat. The Nile-perch, the Bongafish and the Butterfish are not to be sneezed at either. Prepared in the traditional way you eat fish like you have never eaten before. If you don't like fish bones, Butterfish is your meal. This fish has got a leathery skin and is practically without bones. Furthermore I ought to mention lobsters, shrimps and oysters, although you are dependent on the season for them.
The dessert of nearly every meal consists, at least, of fresh fruits. In spring the mango dominates, but papayas are available during the whole year. There are plenty of inland bananas available, rather small, but very tasty. Melon and avocado belong to the popular fruits and, less in quality, but freshly prepared, the pineapple still remains a delicacy.
At meals in the restaurants of hotels there is plenty of choice from several drinks. In the first place there is water. You need to drink a lot. See to it that the bottle of water you ordered is opened at your table! The beer brewed in The Gambia: Julbrew can stand comparison with wellknown brands. Of course there is a variety of foreign beers, Belgian, Danish, German and/or Dutch beer is mostly available. When ordering beer you ask for that particular brand or simply for 'local beer'. Wine, white as well as red, is of generally good (popular) quality. They are imported from Spain, Portugal and Italy. You won't find exclusive wines. Furthermore, you can hardly think of any spirits that are not available in hotels. It's more difficult to order alcoholic drinks in the inland. The Muslim doesn't drink alcohol and the small amount that can be sold to tourists makes keeping a large variety in store rather useless. To be perfectly clear: they don't object to somebody drinking alcohol, but it is not always in store. Don't be surprised to see the waiter jump on his bike or moped to collect an order in a nearby 'supermarket'! There are, for that matter, plenty of alternatives in the rich variety of tea.
It is a pity when a visitor to The Gambia doesn't come any further than the beach near his hotel. An experienced traveller who knows his way around in countries such as The Gambia, could just as well, in the company of a guide or driver, pull out on his own. I wouldn't recommend you to explore the country on your own if you are there for the first time. Hereunder you will find an, by no means exhaustive, account of The Gambia which shows there is more than just the sun, sea and the beach.
Sea and beach You can drive a four-wheel-drive car along nearly the entire coast. At high tide you will have to leave the beach at a few spots. The beaches are clean and there is hardly any pollution in the water. The danger on the coast lies in the tide. Dangerous currents can occur and it is unwise to go into the sea, at any spot, further than your waist. Near hotels you are being warned for the current. A red flag means that you shouldn't go into the sea too far, a blue flag means that you have to be very careful, a white flag or a green one tells you that there is hardly any danger. One of these flags is shown at all times. If not: don't go further into the water than your waist. Never let your children play in the sea alone, not even to paddle. Armbands and waterrings increase the risk of being taken by the current.
You can see the fish swim in the water and every now and then a crab will bite your toe. The shells are neither very big nor exotic, but there are some fine species to be found. The ocean is rich of fish and angling is possible from the beach. Fishermen offer tourists the opportunity to join them for a day or you can make use of organised fishing trips. Bear in mind that the little boats they take to the ocean with are not that stable, so if you are sensitive to seasickness, you might better stay ashore.
Hotels The friendliness and helpfulness is difficult for us to understand. Your own mentality plays a part in that. Hotel staff want to know everything from the tourist and will jump out the frying pan into the fire to please him. It is easy to build a band with the roommaid (mostly a boy) and the staff will say goodbye with tears in their eyes. Don't leave commercial ulterior motives out of account here. Hotel personnel expect tips of course. It is wiser to give regular small tips, than waiting till departure and leaving behind a larger sum of money.
Food is excellent nearly everywhere, international cooking has made its appearance in almost every hotel, certainly on the coast. But often you can have local dishes. Meat, chicken and fish are the principal parts of the food. Meals are usually offered in the form of a buffet, so that you don't have to worry about the names of the dishes. The cook himself is behind the buffet and he likes very much to be complimented. Never miss an unknown dish, do try a mouthful at least.
Fried potatoes and chips might be a bit greasy. Therefore dry bread and dry rice go with every meal.
If your hotel is on the coast it has its own beach and its own guards. They take care of guests not being troubled by too many merchants who have something on offer. Merchants are tolerated in driblets, sometimes by turns and your 'no' is less informal to the merchant near your hotel than to the merchant on the market. Security men sometimes take action against merchants or, so it appears, random passers-by. Sometimes the blows strike home. Don't interfere! If you have a chat with an inlander on the beach of your hotel, it won't take long before a guard comes to ask whose initiative it was to have the conversation.
You will find one or more salesmen of juices near every hotel. Freshly squeezed orange- or grapefruit juice help to keep the percentage of vitamins in shape. I recommend to bring your own cup if you want to make use of this possibility.
A bath attendant is also part of the hotel service. It's his job to see to it that your deck chair is in the right place, in the right position and that towels are provided for. You can bring your own towels, but the use of towels from your hotel room is usually not allowed. They often charge you a small fee for the use of deck chairs and towels. The bath attendant also watches over the safety of the swimmers and it is his responsibility to hoist the right flag.
Tennis courts, if present, are usually at your disposal without charge.
Most hotels have safes in the rooms, but you will have to rent one separately. Sometimes there is a central safe at the reception desk. Changing money and cashing cheques are parts of the service of most hotels.
Besides a restaurant where you can sometimes diner a la carte, every hotel has a lounge and a bar. Most hotels are situated in a park or a large garden.
Inland hotels Besides a stay in a hotel, most people make a tour of the country. Stopping the night mostly happens in camps, simple accommodations, but usually with running (sometimes salt) water and electricity. Do take into account that the latter might not be there. Some camps have a swimming pool.
Bring some school materials when you are on tour, because the need for some support is bigger in the inland than in the coastal area.
One or more of the hereunder mentioned places to stay the night can be visited. All of them are at least acceptable by Western standards, some of them are frankly idyllic. It's also possible of course to spend the night in these hotels if you make a tour on your own.
Cafes and restaurants There are hundreds of cafes and restaurants in The Gambia. They are not all of them just as good and a number of them, particularly inland, are simply unsuitable for a visit. When you are away from the coastal strip, do ask for a restaurant for 'toubabs', for white people. In general there is no need to make reservations in restaurants, with the exception of the busy time round Christmas and New Year.
Restaurants on the beach While walking along the beach you are regularly accosted by young people who try to persuade tourists to visit their bar or restaurant right away or later on. Beer and soft drinks are substantially cheaper than in hotels. A lunch will usually take some more time. You can order your lunch and continue your stroll or take a dip in the sea while lunch is being prepared. Lunch mostly consists of fish. You can't have wetter fish: it comes, by way of speech, right out of the sea. Of course there are differences in quality, but it is nowhere bad. Do try! and don't go by the outward appearances of some beachbars or restaurants.
Most visited places in The Gambia There are lots of places worthwhile visiting. During excursions many of these places are called at. If you don't like to take part in organised trips it's always possible to see the sights on your own. I recommend taking an inland guide with you. A taxidriver will usually be prepared to be your guide. Agree on places to visit, the fare, and the amount you will have to pay for his guidance or waiting beforehand. Agree on an all-in price. You settle up with him after the 'excursion'.
Banjul:
- National Museum
- Albert market
- Big mosque
- Arch 22
- St. Mary's cathedral.
In the coastal area:
- Independence Stadium in Bakau
- Katchikally crocodile pool in Bakau
- craft market in Bakau
- batik factory in Serekunda
- Bijilo-park near Kololi in 'Senegambia'-area
- Fajara warcemetery of honour
- market in Serekunda
- woodcarvers market in Brikama
- Abuko Nature Reserve in Abuko
Inland:
- 'cooking pot' in Bwiam
- Kiang West National Park (between Tankular and Tendaba)
- Tendaba surroundings (birds and nature)
- roundhouse in Toniataba
- giant footprints in Bansang
- 'Traditions' arts and crafts in Basse Santa Su (Duma)
- Musa Moloh tomb ('The Lion King') near Sankule Kunda
- JanjangBureh (what used to be MacCarthy-island and Georgetown)
- Mungo Park Memorial
- stone circles of Wassu and Kerr Batch
- Juffureh, Albreda and James Island
- crocodile pool in Berending
- Fort Bullen near Barra.
Excursions in The Gambia The Gambia is not a country where the sights are for the picking. Nor has it got a rich history you can cling to. Nevertheless there are plenty of possibilities. In The Gambia a number of touroperators are active who, without doubt, can be called reliable. An excursion booked with them, is in good hands. However there are quite a number of 'touroperators' who do not have a licence. I advise you not to go with them. They try to offer their services to you in the street, via restaurants and sometimes even via hotels. Dressed in uniform they all give a reliable impression. Should something happen, you are usually uncovered by insurance. Make use of the services of authorised touroperators. Your host(ess) will know all about it. You can also make reservations on your own; they are often cheaper.
The most reliable and wellknown touropeators:
- Gambia Tours
- West African Tours
City-tour A morning trip to Bakau, Serekunda and Banjul. The following sights will be called at:
- the crocodile wallow in Bakau, with tame crocodiles
- the batik fabrik of Musa Kebba Drammeh in Serekunda
- the local market in Serekunda
- the National Museum in Banjul
- the famous Albert Market in Banjul
- Arch 22, the national symbol of the present regime.
Wrestling games Wrestling is the most popular sport in The Gambia, with football coming a close second. Don't expect to watch a Greek-Roman - or other Olympic wrestling game. Anything is allowed during these games. There is no referee and they have never heard of any rules of the game. Kicking, hitting, throwing sand into each other's eyes is what they call 'free style action'. The audience and the accompanying music make it an unforgettable event. The winner expects a reward, so see to it to carry some small change.
Creekfishing Lazing away the day on board a therefore equipped fishing boat, a traditional piroque. From your hotel you will be taken to Denton Bridge where you go aboard. Bait and the use of fishing rods is included in the price, and your lunch as well. In the morning you angle in the creeks among the mangrove forests in the mouth of the river Gambia. After lunch you will go to the river itself for the real work. You will be surprised of the amount and variety of fish that will be brought to deck. There is plenty of personnel (men and women) on board to help you; you'd better leave getting a fish off the hook to them. Cooled refreshments are for sale on board. The piroque is equipped with a chemical toilet. You can also book this excursion privately; the 'Lady Parrie' sails off with ten to twelve guests on board at the most.
GambiaTravel.com organises every kind of fishing holidays, if you want a day on the creeks, a few days on the ocean or a week fishing holiday for the entire club, contact GambiaTravel.com for an non-committal offer.
Call: 0031 71 589 32 00
Fax: 0031 71 589 32 23
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E-mail: gambia@travelpoort.nl
Roots A one-day excursion to get more insight into the history of slave trade. A three-hour boat trip will take you, via Dog Island to James Island, where you can see the remains of the fort. Via a former British depot for the 'storage' of slaves, Albreda, from where the slaves were shipped, you will finally reach Juffureh, the place where Kunta Kinteh, the main character in the book 'Roots' by Alex Haley (at the same time his great-great-great-etc grandfather), was born. Descendants of this Kinteh-family still live in a compound near the mosque. Lunch will be served on board.
Jeep Safari Without doubt the most popular excursion. Seated in a Landrover you will visit some villages in the south of The Gambia and the school in Sanyang. Before that you will go to Uncle John to be introduced to palm wine: jungle juice and zum-zum. Its taste will not be appreciated by everyone, but you really must have drunk it. Lunch will be served on the beach of Sanyang where you also have the opportunity to swim. After lunch you witness how fish are brought in, dried and smoked. If the tide allows you will be taken back to your hotel across the beach.
African Experience An evening excursion is the perfect opportunity to get aquainted to the typical Gambian cooking. You are welcomed in a compound with, yes!: Sangria, a drink that will be served during the meal as well. After this welcome they will show you how the food is prepared in a traditional way. That will take some time, so they take you to the local market where you have the opportunity to buy souvenirs at fixed prices. There will also be a marabout who predicts your future. How that happens? Go through it! In the meantime dinner is ready and is served in roundhouses. During dinner you will be regaled on traditional music.
To Kafoutine in Senegal An experience of first order. In Landrovers or trucks you travel through the south, known as 'Cassamance'. Your passports will be checked in hotel Le Karone. Dependent on the tide you sail to Kailo. During this excursion a lot is explained about spiritual experiences and sometimes these are even made visual. Lunch will be served in Le Karone and there is the opportunity to have an invigorating dip in the sea. The way back will be covered via a 'smugglers route', so no passport check this time. A wonderful excursion (and you have been to Senegal at the same time).
Champagne and caviar This trip starts in the afternoon. A three-hour boat trip will give you a clear understanding of all that happens in the creeks and mangrove swamps. After you have seen the sun set, you go to Lamin Lodge, the restaurant built on the water in Lamin. Dinner will be served by candlelight, and after that the local population will show you what they mean by singing and dancing.
Birds & Breakfast The Gambia is high on the list of countries with the most varieties of birds. By now nearly 500 different species have been observed. This excursion is one for the real lover of nature. Getting up early for a short journey to Lamin Lodge, where tea or coffee will be served. After that you enter the creeks by canoes, on the look out for the exotic TheGambia. After two-and-a-half hours of paddling it is high time for breakfast, which is also served in Lamin Lodge. After breakfast you are going to look for more fine things on foot.
Looking for dolphins A half-a-day excursion on the river Gambia. After they have picked you up at your hotel you go aboard near Denton Bridge. From there course is set, via mangrove swamps, to the river. Under way you pass Banjul, so that you have also seen the capital from the water. Having arrived on the river, the captain will start searching for dolphins that are frequently found here. Once a group has been found they try to keep them near the boat as long as possible. Some groups are that tame that you can make hand contact with them, others stay at a larger distance. But they remain animals, no matter how intelligent they are.
The chance of meeting them can never be guaranteed. Figures show that the chance is 80%.
To the Bintang Bolong A journey by Landrover or truck through the surrounding countryside of the hotels. Through woods and across fields, via several villages, you reach Brikama. A stop will be made at a company that produces raw material for paint by means of burning oyster shells. You will take a walk through a small village where only Fula live. The journey is continued via the Senegambia Highway to Bintang. There you can make a boat trip by original piroque, that will last 1 to 1,5 hours, on one of the most beautiful bolongs in The Gambia. There is a serious chance of meeting a crocodile, you can enjoy the bird life anyway. You have lunch in Bintang Bolong Lodge, beautifully situated on the bolong. The local population will take care of a folkloristic performance.
To Abuko, Brikama and Lamin Lodge A sort of 3-in-1 excursion for early birds. At about 07.30 you leave your hotel for a journey to the Abuko Nature Reserve, an unalloyed piece of jungle as a national park in the coastal area. Under way you will have a look at the cattle market. A walk through the park in the early morning is an experience in itself. Monkeys live in the park and from the observation centre you can see crocodiles in their natural surroundings. Bird life is fantastic here; nearly 300 different species have been observed. In the park is a small zoo with, among other things, lions, antilopes and hyenas. In Brikama you will pay a visit to the wood cutting market. Knocking down the price is a 'must' here, and you have about an hour to do so. Lunch will be served in Lamin Lodge, the restaurant built on the water, from where you have a splendid view over the bolongs.
Tendaba (2 days)
Via the Transgambia Highway you will be taken to Tendaba, more than 150 kilometres landinward. There will be two stops under way: one to have a look in a Fula-village and one to stretch your legs. After you have checked in (room with electrical light, ceiling-fan and shower/toilet) you have lunch. You are now free till about 16.00, and you have the opportunity to have a look in the little village or to enjoy yourself round the small swimming pool or by the waterside. From 16.00. a river excursion is planned with a magnificent journey through the bolongs opposite the camp. After dinner the local population will perform for you, and after that you can enjoy yourself in the 'Bambo-bar, situated on the water.
Your breakfast will be ready at 07.30. the next morning and is followed by a safari in Kiang West National Park. You have lunch in the camp and after that you witness crocodiles that belong to the camp, having lunch. Then you go back to the coast. Under way there will be a stop at the woodcarversmarket in Brikama.
JanjangBureh (Georgetown, 2 days)
An excellent opportunity to discover a bit more of The Gambia. Via the Transgambia Highway you go to JanjangBureh, the former Georgetown. Under way you see several typical Gambian villages. The village itself is on MacCarthy Island, nowadays also called JanjangBureh,so that you will have to cross over. After you have seen a former slave house, you cross over again, because JanjangBureh-camp, the place to spend the night, is on the northbank near Lamin Koto.After lunch you pay a visit to Wassu where the mysterious stone circles are. You will also visit a Mandinka village. Dinner is served outside, in the form of a buffet, your room has no electricity, so you have to rely on an oil lamp. There is running water, a shower and toilet. The local population will take care of entertainment after dinner. The second day you sail downstream to Sapo. Lunch will be served on board. You are pretty far landinward so that there is a real good chance of meeting crocodiles or even hippos. From Sapo the bus will take you back to the coast.
For direct reservations or more information: GambiaTravel.com
Bedrijvenweg 24
2351 BG Leiderdorp
The Netherlands
Prices: if you book a holiday to The Gambia, prices of organised excursions are never included.
Hustlers or bumpsters: The Gambia's national plague? Perhaps you will never meet the name 'hustlers' for a population group anywhere else but in The Gambia. The name came into being after, mainly younger, Gambians started meddling with tourists in rather unpleaseant ways. You can also connect the word 'hustle' to hunting. That way of hunting happens in a pushy way to tourists who are the quarry for the hustler. Another word for hustler is bumpster, from 'to bump into'. It is a method to get into contact with the population. Hustlers are considerate and polite, they neatly introduce themselves and are especially interested in your well-being. That is not strange, it will happen to you all over The Gambia. But the hustler has ulterior motives: he wants something from you. He wants money, he wants you to be in a certain restaurant, he wants to sell you something, he invites you to have a look at his family, he offers to accompany you somewhere, to put it briefly, his commercial ulterior motives are obvious.
It is rather complicated to distinguish a hustler. You often meet them on the beach in the vicinity of 'beach pavilions'. The exit of a hotel is a favourite spot, or the surroundings of souvenir shops or markets. You might also meet them in your hotel, he could be your maid or his superior. As soon as somebody wants more from you than a good talk about the country you come from, you must be careful. Ten to one you are dealing with a hustler. You don't have to keep your hand on your purse or wallet, it seldom happens that they rob you, in the literal sense of the word, not even if there are two of them, or, and that might occur, if they are with four. The chance of you coming back with the police is too big a risk for them, because the police will not ask beforehand if they have got the right person, at your indication they will start beating him up rightaway. A hustler will not take that risk.
However it could be most charming to talk to a hustler, to horse around a bit and give him a taste of his own medicine. You should be able to do so, and particularly if you are in a country such as The Gambia for the first time, I recommend you to be careful. Shake him off quickly, if necessary you could use some stronger words than the words you normally use to have a conversation. Don't buy anything, don't promise anything, don't give anything and never make an appointment with a hustler.
There are a few methods to get rid of a hustler. Most simple: don't react to anything, ignore him. It may seem impolite not to react when you are greeted warmly, but if it happens on one of the aforesaid places by one of the described persons, it is a form of self-defence. Walking briskly, although no fun in The Gambia, pretending you go somewhere, might help too. Most hustlers are boys aged 18 to 25. Most!. These men are keen on sports shoes and they are worn by nearly all of them. That is also a sign of being a hustler, a 'non-hustler' can't afford these extravagances. As said before: you often meet them on the beach. The Gambian beaches are beautiful and slope down gradually into the sea. A Westerner likes to stroll on the edge of sea and beach, a hustler will forget that, because of his shoes. If you walk along the beach and want to avoid hustlers (a large number of them anyway), walk barefoot and walk into the sea for a few metres if you see one. He will walk along with you for ten metres on dry land, welcome you and ask all sorts of questions; he wants more, but will slink off rapidly. Protect your legs and the top of your toes against sunburn.
The Gambian government has had hundreds of complaints about the behaviour of hustlers of course. It will do anything to keep on the right side with tourists. Police were deployed. In many places on the beach, particularly in the vicinity of hotels, you will see policemen on guard. Police patrol on the beach, on foot and by car. When the Gambian government finally managed and there was not one hustler left who even dared looking at a tourist (remember: the police will not try to change the hustler's mind via a good talk), there were complaints about the behaviour of the police and about the fact that contact with the local population was practically impossible. The Gambian government withdrew the police for the greater part, and yes, there they were again. Except for a few who had been trained, via a special government programme, to be a guide or who had another job in the tourist-industry.
The only thing left to do now was to make an appeal to the tourist's common sense. Ignore the hustler. Only then they become extinct. But take care not to wreck any meeting or conversation with your attitude beforehand. Because then you miss something unique in the world.
Young people who are anxious to hear about the rest of the world. People who will give you a card, cut from a cardboard box or empty cement-bag, with their name and address on it and who ask you to be their far away friend.
Sports in The Gambia
Watersport Watersportlovers have to put up with all that is offered in and around hotels. Watersport in The Gambia is still in its infancy and there is hardly any supply. Ask the reception or the entertainment-team of your hotel.
Angling Perhaps the most practised sport in the world. There are plenty of possibilities in The Gambia to catch a fish. At sea from usually small boats (don't go if you are sensitive to seasickness), from the beach, in the creeks round and in the river Gambia and of corse on the ocean. On your own or in organised excursions, anything is possible. If you are with some people you can rent a piroque and take to the river. An organised fishing trip is preferable to fishing on your own. A lot of exotic fish live in the Gambian waters, some of which are pretty nasty, one or two even lethal. It is therefore wise to have experienced personnel at your disposal, who recognize the fish and will take them off the hook for you.
Golf An 18-holes golf course is situated in the immediate surroundings of Fajara hotel. It's a beautifully laid out course, but take into account that the grass is not always as green as it should be. After the rain season the colour slowly changes into brown. You can be a member of the Fajara Golf- and Countryclub for just one day. You can rent clubs for a small amount of money and there is a course with 9 Par 4, 7 Par 3 and 2 Par 5 holes at your disposal. You are welcome every day, but on Saturday afternoons they play competition matches. Then you can see the best golfplayers of the country in action or enjoy the facilities of the pavilion.
Cycling There are people who can't keep from cycling. The Gambia is a beautiful country to cycle in and there are plenty of possibilities to rent bikes. I don't recommend making hiking tours, but it is possible. Always take plenty of water with you!
Tennis and squash Nearly all hotels have tenniscourts that are available for guests, usually without charge. There have become more and more opportunities to play squash in or near hotels lately. Balls and rackets are to let for small amounts of money. The hotel reception will give you information and will make reservations for you. Interest in tenniscourts can be pretty high, particularly in the morning and late in the afternoon. Don't be tempted to play tennis a bit later or earlier then between 10.00 and 16.00. I advise you against physical exertion in general and sports in particular.
Horseriding Renting a horse to make trips or ride along the beach has become more and more popular lately. Some riding-schools can be found in the vicinity of hotels. The hotel reception will help you further. Usually an instructor will go with you (he is even prepared to hold the bridle reins for you), but you can also take lessons. If the instructor thinks your knowledge is sufficient, you are allowed to pull out under your own steam.
Watching sports Most sportslovers become less active in The Gambia than when they are at home. Temperatures don't invite you to go for your daily hour of jogging or arobic dancing (although some hotels offer this to their guests under supervision). Watching sports is another matter. While enjoying a cool drink you take part in sports. You can, organised or not, visit wrestling matches and attending a football match in Independence Stadium in Bakau is an experience. For rugbylovers there is the opportunity to attend a match near the medical centre just outside Fajara.
Shopping and souvenirs The Gambia is a country where you have to knock down prices. You do so anywhere, with the exception of shops where articles are put up for sale at fixed prices, like supermarkets. That is often a question of instincts. Your basic assumption should be that an article should yield 40 to 50% of what they ask for it, sometimes even less. As said before, you must get the hang of it and you should feel like it. Don't start laying in a stock of souvenirs on your first day, but wait till you have a better understanding of the way of trading and of prices. A visit to shops with fixed prices, or a boutique in a hotel, will give you a clear indication. Street trading articles are often of excellent quality and you should not expect better quality in a shop with fixed prices.
Looking for department stores in The Gambia is in vain. Shops are small, although there are often carefully kept and well stocked shops in the vicinity of hotels. You can find super- and minimarkets everywhere and laying in foods, drinks, sweets and bread is no problem at all. They do not have all these things in large quantities at all times of course. Common foods are always available. Fresh bread is not always in stock and the time the caterer will arrive is regularly unclear. You can always find a super- or minimarket on hotelgrounds or in the immediate surroundings. Take into account that prices of identical articles might substantially differ. In and round hotels prices are often lots higher than the prices you have to pay if you take the trouble to leave the grounds for a short time. You just buy your spirits in the supermarket, but anywhere prices can be higher than the ones you usually pay.
All this has to be imported into The Gambia, the assortment is often small. The larger the supermarket, the larger the assortment. You buy your beer and softdrinks in the supermarket as well. The supply, usually canned, generally leaves nothing to be desired. Most supermarkets have large refrigerators from which you can take your drinks cooled without price increase. Bear in mind that drinking too cool, could give you a few miserable days. In every supermarket, of course, you can find the most important article: water.
For souvenirs, although also for sale in boutiques round hotels, you step into the street and go to the market. You do not return from The Gambia without a piece of woodcarving of course. A diversity of objects is made of wood. A lot of silver is on offer too, but take into account that the silver, usually skilfully worked, is often 'silver'. In Banjul is a shop where you can get a certificate of authenticity.
Furthermore you can have cheap and good custom made clothing made. Pay on delivery! If you know about this it is possible to find cloth yourself and have a tailor make a garment. Most hotels have the address of a good tailor. Furthermore you find a lot of batiks in The Gambia. You can buy lengths of cloth or, if you like, tailor-made dresses, shirts etc.
Transport
Buses There are officially regulated bus services in The Gambia. Don't expect them to ride on schedule (not even approximately). The centre of public transport is in Serekunda. From there you can travel, via the southbank of the river Gambia, till Basse Santa Su at least, sometimes even till Fatoto. Via the northbank you can get as far as Lamin Koto (north of JanjangBureh) by public transport. You will have to cross over to Barra then first.
Sorts of taxis Taxitransport in The Gambia attracts a lot of attention. Not only tourists make a lot of use of it, especially the Gambian people themselves maintain the taxi-system. You can roughly say that there are four sorts of taxis you can make use of: the tourist-taxi, the common taxi, the bush-taxi in the form of a small bus and the bush-taxi in the form of a common taxi. The most important differences are that a tourist- or common taxi rides the route that the customer asks for, the bush-taxis ride a fixed route. The most remarkable difference however is the fare.
Bush-taxis Minibuses operate regular services between certain places. You can see a lot of the country and, above all, meet the local population for little money in that way. All sorts of things are put on the bus and you should not be surprised if, at any place, goats are loaded or lifted onto the roof of the bus. It is by no means a comfortable way of travelling and you shouldn't use this bus if you want to have a quick outing with your family, but highly recommended for an exciting day.
The yellow/green striped taxis ride fixed routes at fixed fares as well. It is mostly about shorter distances, for example between Serekunda and Bakau. You share this taxi with other people. If you want to make use of it you stand by the side of the road and when a taxi approaches you hold up the number of fingers that equals the number of passengers you are with. If you are alone, just give a stop signal. If there is room enough in the taxi, the driver will stop and you get in. If you want to get off, you let the driver know, you pay and indicate where you want to get off. An empty bush-taxi will change into a common taxi if you ask for it. Agree on the fare beforehand!
Taxis The use of taxis is by far the best way to have yourself transported. Near hotels you will always find a number of tourist-taxis (green with diamonds). In most cases there is a notice board with the fares to several destinations as well. Agree on the fare beforehand here too, the taxis are not equipped with meters. Some hotels have a special porter who sees to your taxi transport. Most taxidrivers are willing to accompany you if you want to stop and have a look around somewhere. You will have to pay extra for the time they are waiting and for their guidance.
There are a few taxi ranks where you can get into a taxi as well. Never forget to agree on fares beforehand.
Finally there are taxis that drive around and pick up passengers under way. They give a honk if they think you look like wanting transport. They take you anywhere you want for the fare you agreed on beforehand.
Ferries In dozens of places between Banjul and Fatoto you can cross the river Gambia by ferry. The number of people that can get onto it may vary strongly, just like the way of crossing over. In some places you will find a ferry for foot-passengers and you yourself have to help getting the ferry to the other side. On official ferries you will not get back any change.
Renting cars Renting a car is possible on a small scale. You must be in the possesion of a current driving licence. In view of the condition of the roads and the lack of lighting and signposting, I don't recommend renting a car to set out on your own. But if you can't help it: be sure to have several maps and rent a 4WD. In general you will not be insured. Buying petrol is a problem sometimes. As a result of regular power failure it is not possible to fill up during that time, unless you are prepared to take off the hood of the pump and operate the pump manually. Keep your tank filled up. Landinward it might happen that petrol is sold out and it might take another few days before they are supplied.
Cycling The Gambia is a practically flat country. Generally roads are of a lesser quality than in western countries and temperatures are higher. Cycling, however, is possible and renting a bike in the vicinity of most hotels is no problem. The quality of the bicycles is, in relation to the price you have to pay, rather poor. Knock down on prices!
Prolonged stay or settling in The Gambia There are relatively simple possibilities for foreigners to settle in the country. The easiest way is starting a business. You will receive a temporary residence permit for one year. You can prolong it later, but is is also possible to have an indefinite residence permit that is not made out in your name. Entrepreneurs are very welcome in The Gambia. The Ministry for Industrial Development in Banjul will certainly be helpful. If you want to settle in The Gambia without producing an economical achievement, you will have to apply to the Ministry of Immigration, also in Banjul. You must point out that you can support yourself after which the permit to settle is no problem any longer. It is also possible to invest in The Gambia. This has to be done with great caution however. If you consider starting up something in The Gambia, I recommend consulting an expert. There are people in The Gambia, Gambian or foreign by birth, who know the way and who are prepared to advise newcomers. You usually have to pay for that aid, but independent information and thorough preliminary investigation is of paramount importance for serious plans.
Bansang Hospital Far east in The Gambia is the little town of Bansang. In itself not a remarkable place, but it is getting more and more important. That is neither because of the existence of relay-stations for radio and TV, nor because of the existence of the 'giant footprints'. No, Bansang is important because of the existence of the only hospital in the eastern part of The Gambia (soon another hospital will be opened near Bwiam). It is not only of great importance for the people who live there, they also treat patients from Senegal. These people are sometimes trucked in. Other people are often under way to get treatment, advice or medications for a very long time. Each year the hospital carries out 80,000 to 90,000 acts. Everybody is welcome, everyone will be treated. A visit costs 5 Dalasis, medications included. If people don't have money, or can't afford it, they are helped free. Like with all other clinics in The Gambia all sorts of things are lacking here. There is one sterilizer, while they need four of them. The operation-theatre has to be done up, there should be more instruments and the dispensary needs urgent extension to give a few examples.
Mothers whose child has been operated sleep on the ground among the beds of patients. They improvise on a large scale to give maximum service. Doctors from all over the world do their very best for this hospital for a shorter or longer period of time. The 160 beds are permanently occupied and every year about 6,000 people are hospitalized. All the others go back home after a visit or outpatients' treatment. For more complicated treatment, like heart surgery or compound fractures they have to rely on the hospital in Banjul. Patients are taken there via the road. The individual who is lucky to be sponsored, can even go abroad to get treatment.
Bansang Hospital fills a large need. It is remarkable that there is (still) hardly any aids in The Gambia, in comparison to other African countries. Venereal diseases, however, are the most treated diseases in this hospital, followed by eye- and intestinal diseases. Recently an eye-clinic was opened.
What is still lacking, but that is a permanent problem, is money. The central government contributes 10% towards the cost, for the rest they have to rely on outside help. Fortunately that help is found all over the world. The care for all those patients rests with a medical staff that consists of 8 doctors, one or two from China and Cuba and 5 surgeons.About 125 nurses with several specialisms work here. About 70% of them are registered.
During my journeys through the country I never miss Bansang Hospital. If possible I take some materials I know they need or just because I got something of which I thought: 'yes, Bansang!' Old spectacles will serve for years there. Adhesive- and dressing material sometimes mean that an operation can be carried out. I thought that you, spending your holidays in this country, could be confronted with the other The Gambia. If you want to do something:
Bansang Hospital, donation account 1011-01 Standard Chartered Bank, Basse Branch, The Gambia.
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